____________________________________ qp~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~qp db Offroad Annihilation db qp or qp db How to Piss-Off a Biker db qp qp db by db qp Mental Hijinx qp db__________________________________db ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Well, another file to start yet another war on still even another group of people...'The Offroad Offender' These are basically people who engage in vehicular offroad activities, such as dirt bike riding, 3 and/or 4 wheeling, bicycling, etc. The difference between the 'offender' and the regular rider is that the offender is the one who trashes property and land just for the sake of trashing. He/she has no concern for the environment or others personal property. Of course, you can use these traps on others but nothing quite compares with taste of 'sweet revenge'....muahahahaha. Anyway: THE PIT ~~~~~~~ Ok this is pretty basic, simple, and self explanitory, but here's a breakdown. In the middle of a well used trail that your victim frequents, dig a fairly large hole. About 1.5 feet wide, 2 to 2.5 feet long, and 1.5 to 2 feet deep. That's an average hole for a motorcycle. Bicycle holes are made somewhat smaller, and 3-wheeler's are made a little wider. When making a 4-wheeler hole you have 2 choices: 1) Make a hole for only one tire, or 2) Make a trench for both front tires. In the 1st choice the hole should be a little wider than the one listed, and in the 2nd choice it should be a lot wider, enough to facilitate both tires. The trick is to make the hole just long enough and deep enough to encompass the whole tire lengthwise and a little more than half the tire heightwise. Also, make sure it is more of a pit than just a hole. The sides should go straight down, and not at an angle. This will ensure that the victim's bike will fall into the hole, get lodged, and throw the rider off. Like so: ::::::::: <---Tire Ground :: | :: | :: \ | / :: \|/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|:: - >*< - :: |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|:: / | \ :: |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| :: | :: | <---Pit~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| ::::::::: |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ If the tire does not go in at least halfway, then there is a good chance that it will be able to continue out of the hole with no harm done. Placement also plays a major role in this trap, how much depends on your camouflage ability. A well placed trap that is well camouflaged can hardly ever be detected by the oncoming victim. A good place is about halfway down a long straigt-away. Not only does the victim reach a higher speed, but he also doesn't look towards the ground as much on a smooth straight-away. Another good place is after a turn, but not on the turn itself because it is hard to regulate how a certain driver will take a certain turn. And not after a jump or steep hill because there's a good chance that the victim will either wipe out from the jump/hill or swerve causing them to miss the trap. Now, to camouflage the trap will take some of your own doing, for I can't possibly list all the camouflage techniques used for all terrains. However, most all tracks are dirt/sand/or other loose soil material and a thin cover sheet (cardboard, stiff paper, etc.) can usually support a top layer of ground material over the trap. Try to keep the top layer thin, and be sure to cover the edges of the cover sheet well enough so they can't be readily seen. More care should be taken when dealing with bicylists because of the slower speeds involved. They travel a lot slower than a motorcylce, and thus can focus on the ground in front of them more quickly and get a greater detail of what lies ahead. Another twist to the pit trap is to trap the trap with sharp objects, much like the punji pits of the East. There are two basic ways to do this: 1) Line the inside of the pit with sharp objects, such as large nails, sharpened sticks, railroad ties, etc. These objects must be implanted either in the sides of the pit or the bottom. If they are set in the sides, then the surrounding soil must be hard enough to hold them tightly in place. The longer the spikes are the more they can be pushed into the ground inorder to hold them in place. Spikes set in the bottom of the pit should be stood straight up, and in deep enough so they will remain so. It is important that the objects be held firmly because the purpose of the spikes is to puncture the incoming tire, so they need to be strong enough to stay in place long enough to punch through the tire. Like this: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| Pit |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ /,\,!=Spikes ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|/ \|~~~~~~~~~Ground~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~/|/ ! \|\~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~/| ! ! ! |\~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~/~~~~~~!~~~!~~~!~~~~~~\~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2) This method requires a smaller hole/pit, and is more effective at puncturing tires and/or throwing a rider off his vehicle. What is done is a small hole is dug, like a pit but smaller. About 1.5 feet long, .75 foot wide, and .5 foot deep. Now take a 1x6 (or similar piece of wood) and nail some fairly large nails into one end. Space them about 1" inch apart, and nail them about halfway into the wood. Next, cut the heads off the nails and file the ends to a point. All that is left is to set the board in the hole at a slant with the points sticking just above the ground, and camouflage the hole. It should look something like this: @@@@--- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| @@@@@ /~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --- = Nails ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| @@@@@ /~~~~~~~~~~Ground~~~~~~~~~~ @ = Board ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|@@@@ /~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Notice that one end of the pit is at a gradual slant; this is to make sure that the nails on the end are pointing in the correct direction (About a 45 degree angle from the level groud). When done correctly this trap cause a major dilema for the victim. The idea is to have the victim hit the nails on the end of the board, which will puncture his tire, then because the board is wedged next to the opposite side of the pit it has no where to go but up. The effect is like a pole-vaulter (indeed the pit should look similar to a pole-vaulter's pit), the board will rise, however, due to the weight and the grab of the nails in the tire the bike will very rarely flip straight over. Rather, it will raise slightly and cause the victim to loose balance and be thrown off. (Note: This is basically intended for 2-wheel vehicles) THE PLANK ~~~~~~~~~ This is another simple trap, but it is usually very effective. Take a board, any dimension you choose, but keep the thickness about 1/2" to 3/4". Now hammer some nails through so that their points are sticking out one side of the board. A good rule to follow is to use nails that are about 3 times as long as your board is thick, so if you are using 1/2" wood your nails would be 1 1/2" long. Set the nails in a staggered pattern, like this : ______________________ | |\ | () () () | | The square thing is the board (For you | () () | | total morons out there...and I'm sure | () () () | | there are a few) And the ()s are the | () () | | nails. The board is shown very small | () () () | | because I didn't want to bore you (HA!) | () () | | with a monsterously huge illustration | () () () | | of a board with nails. You can, however, | () () | | make the board any size you wish. Also | () () () | | the nails are quite densly packed, in |______________________| | an actual trap you would want the nails \______________________\| spread out a little more. About 2 1/2" to 3" apart depending on the size of you board. Now that you've got this built I bet you already know what we're going to do with it, don't you? That's right, bury it a little ways underground so that only the nails are sticking up. You don't really have to bury this, but it does help to camouflage it. When I say bury I just mean dig up enough ground to set your board in so that when you cover it with a layer of topsoil it will remain pretty level in comparison with the rest of the ground. It should look something like this : || || || || || || || || @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@||@@@@@@@@||@@@@@@@@||@@@@@@@@@||@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@||@@@@@@@@||@@@@@@@@||@@@@@@@@@||@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@/////////////////////////////////////////@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@/////////////////////////////////////////@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @ = Ground / = Board || = Nail It should be pretty obvious by now what will happen when someone rides over this, POP! Well not actually a pop, unless of course they have their tires way over inflated, but rather a leak will form and within a short time they will have no air in their tire or tires. This depends, of course, upon the length of your board. If they run over more than 3 or 4 nails, their tires will be flat in no time. And a tire with over 4 holes in it is almost not worth patching, esp. when the holes are in such close proximity to each other on the tire. That means that the victim must by a new tire, and after having to buy a couple of new tires each time he rides across the trapped trail he'll think twice before he rides there again. One note I'd like to add to the placement of this trap, is that it works best when placed among grass or other weeds. This helps hide the nails sticking up. These nails can be quite obvious when placed in the middle of a dirt trail. If possible place some pine needles or other underbrush over the nails in order to conceal them. Use your best judgement here, like I said before I can't go into all the camouflage techniques in this file (Maybe some other time). One last suggestion is to place this on the down side of a small hill, riders usually can't see the other side of a small hill and aren't looking towards the ground when they can see it. This does not mean on the down side of a steep hill, which are used for jumps and such. Riders tend to fly over the down side of steep hills too much for the trap to be effective there. LAND MINE ~~~~~~~~~ Sure there are plenty of explosive philes out there that tell you how to make plastique, detonators, TNT, and all sorts of devastating weapons (Some of which I've written...hehe...plug, plug) The problem is either finding the right chemicals and materials or it's diferintiating between the real philes and the bogus philes. I've seen so many philes that people have written that would not nor could not ever work, it's pitiful. So for this land mine trap I've decided to keep is simple. No fancy chemicals, no outrageous materials, just a good oldfashioned homemade land mine. The principal behind this is basically the same as the 'nut busters' or 'shotgun bombs' that I've seen in the _Poor_Man's_James_Bond_ and also in a couple of philes. However, this is modified for use in the ground and not for tossing into the air. Let me give you the diagram first, and then explain what's going on. Here it is : | | Kind of confusing at first but ~~~~~~~~~~~ | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~ bear with me. Here's the key : | | ! | | ! ~~~~ = Ground Level ! | | ! ! | | ! | | = 3/4" Pipe ! | | ! ! | | ! ! ! = 1" Pipe ! | ++++++++++ | ! ! | ++++++++++ | ! ++++ ! | ++++++++++ | ! ++++ = Shotgun Shell ! | ++++++++++ | ! @@@@ ! | ++++++++++ | ! ~~~~~~ ! | ++++++++++ | ! ! | @@@@@@@@@@ | ! # # = Standard Pipe Cap ! | @@@@@@@@@@ | ! ##! ~~~~~~/\~~~~~~ !## /\ #! \\ !# \\ = 1/4" Bolt # **** # |||| #################### |||| **** = Nut to fit Bolt You'll probably also notice that the diagram is slightly exploded (Haha, that's a joke son, you're supposed to laugh). The reason it's spaced apart is just for ease of reading. If it wasn't spaced it would be even more confusing than it probably already is. Anyway the finished product should fit together rather snugly, but should allow the two pipes to slide in and out freely. The bigger pipe acts as the stock of a gun, to anchor everything together. The smaller pipe acts as the barrel of a gun and also as a plunger to push the shell in to the firing pin (the bolt). To construct this mine you first need to obtain a shotgun shell or two. These are easy enough to come by. Go to a sporting goods store, you can usually buy them right off the shelf with no questions asked. Next make a trip to the local hardware store and pick up some pipe. The pipe should be just big enough to allow the shell to slide in all the way except for the metal lip at the bottom of the shell. This is so that when the pipe is pushed down the shell will move with the pipe instead of just sliding up into it. Now you must get a piece of pipe just big enough to let the smaller pipe slide through it. These don't have to be that snug but don't let them be too loose. The smaller pipe should always be pointing up, NOT at an angle. The reverse is also a problem, they can't be too tight. They should slide freely with NO friction. The measurements used in the above diagram are just an approximation, they fit the size shell I had. Chances are your shell will be of a different size and thus the pipes will be too. The lenght of the pipes should not be shorter than 6" or longer than 12". The thickness really doesn't matter, whatever you can find will work. Also the pipes do not have to be metal. You can use PVC or ceramic, however, these pipes have been know to break when triggered thus causing uncertain results. I've had pipes break and the shell just explodes underground (backfire) but I've also had pipes break and send shrapnel along with the shell fragments. The choice is yours. Now about the most trouble you'll have with this is finding an endcap. If you're using metal pipe you have to have threads on one end of the pipe, this is the problem. It's not finding an endcap, it's finding a pipe with threads. Most hardware stores sell pipes with tread on the end, but only in long sections. And most places won't cut them down. If you have a hacksaw, great, you can cut your own. Otherwise you'll either have to find someone with a hacksaw, someplace that cuts pipes down, search in a junkyard, or use another piping material such as PVC. If you use PVC the endcaps are simply glued onto the pipe using a special PVC glue. Use only this glue, for it is the strongest sealant for use with PVC and it's specifically made for sealing PVC. Ok, you've got the pipes and the endcap to fit...now what? Well, every gun has to have a firing pin in order to activate the bullet, and this mine is no exception. Let me take this opportunity to explain the basics of how a gun works, and it's also a chance for me to throw in a couple more graphics. A shotgun shell is made up of a plastic container that holds the buckshot (the stuff that actually shoots out of the gun, or BB's) |\/\/\/\/\/| and a metal endcap that holds the firing |oooooooooo| <-- Shotgun charge (which is usually just gunpowder and |oooooooooo| } Shell packing). On the bottom of the endcap is a |oooooooooo| } small, round lump. This is what activates the |oooooooooo| } o = Buck shell. Now, the gun has a barrel (the long |oooooooooo| } Shot pipe piece) which holds the charge from the |oooooooooo| } bullet in line and helps keep it going straight |oooooooooo| } # = Gun after it exits the gun, a trigger (we all know |oooooooooo| } Powder what that is right?), a stock (the part that |oooooooooo| } fits up to your sholder), and a firing pin or |oooooooooo| <-- hammer. The firing pin is a sharp pointed !~~~~~~~~~~! <-- object that is held back by various springs !##########! } Endcap and such. When the trigger is pulled the ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <-- firing pin is released and the point penatrates ___________ the round lump on the endcap which ignites the / \ <--B E charge and sends the buckshot flying. That's / \ o n just a basic overview of the operation of a | _ | t o d gun. There are a few other parts that weren't | Lump->(_) | t f c mentioned, and little concept was given but hey | | o a this file isn't about gun construction it's \ / m p about Offroad Annihilation and if you really \___________/ want to know more about guns check my file on them. Anyway, now where was I...oh yes the firing pin. For the firing pin on this mine we are going to use a 1/4" bolt, these can be obtained at any hardware store for a couple of cents and come with a nut to fit. Now the difference between this mine and a gun is that the firing pin in the mine is stationary where as the pin in a gun moves. This is why the shell must move onto the pin in order for it to be fired, and also why the pin must be held firmly and accuratly in place. If there's a way to mess this mine up, this is the place. Placement of the pin is critical, for if it doesn't hit the shell directly on the lump charge there's a damn good chance that it won't go off. So, you must be extremly careful when initiating this next step. The firing pin will be secured onto the endcap with the threads of the bolt on the inside of the endcap. But how do you get this bolt secured on the endcap? Simple, you drill a hole. However, that's easier said than done, especially when you are working with steel pipe. PVC is fairly easy to drill out, you should have no problems when using that. Ceramic on the other hand does pose other problems...breakage. For ceramic you need to be sure and use a sharp bit and take your time, if you don't the cap will crack. Needless to say you need a drill in order to drill a hole (Pretty basic I know, but hey I like to be thorough...blegh!) and a good strong bit. Most regular plug-in drills will work fine, but I wouldn't suggest using one of those cheap ass battery opperated kinds. The torque and RPMs are just to low when drilling steel or other similar metals. An ideal thing to use, if you have access to one, is a drill press. They make the job a lot easier, but it's not a 'have to have.' The bit should be slightly larger than the bolt, but not too much bigger. When drilled, the bolt should be able to slip through the hole with relative ease. If it won't fit don't try to turn or pry the bolt through, doing that could mess up the threads and render the bolt useless, rather widen the hole a little more to make it fit the bit. Now before you go drilling the hole, you have to mark where the hole is going to be on the endcap. Like I said earlier, you have to make sure the bolt head lines up with the shell exactly. There are two simple ways to do this: 1) The Measuring Technique: With this you will need a ruler, and a pencil. First, center the shell in the endcap, making sure that it is in the exact center as it will sit when fully assembled. Second, trace around the shell with the pencil. Now measure how far in from the edge the initiator is located. Then measure that distance on the endcap from the pencil mark you made. Make the spot. Now to double check yourself, measure the diameter of the endcap and you should find that your mark resides at the exact center of the endcap. If there is only a slight difference, don't worry...go with your original mark. If there's a big difference, you made some sort of error. (Don't you know how to use a ruler?) So it'd be best to try again, or go with the second mark. 2) The Ink Method: I find this the best way to mark the endcap for drilling, for it is way more accurate. You will need some ink, paint, or other liquid marking substance. First, assemble the mine by screwing on the large pipe to the endcap and putting the shell into the small pipe. Now, coat the bottom of the shell (the part that is visible) with the ink and slide the pipe and shell into the big pipe. Push the smaller pipe all the way down, and give it a twist or two. Finally, dump out the smaller pipe and shell and then unscrew the big pipe. Looking at the endcap you should see an imprint of the bottom of the shell, in exactly the position it will be sitting in when the mine is assembled. Now mark the initiator spot and you're ready to drill. The actual drilling process is not that difficult if you take your time and do it right. As stated before, PVC should give you no problems but when drilling metal or ceramic you need to give it a little time. Also, before drilling be sure to clamp the endcap down so that it won't move. It's almost impossible to hold onto one while trying to drill a hole in it. This is very important, clamping it down makes drilling easier and allows for a more accurate hole to be drilled. And for you morons, be sure to set the cap down so the threads are not showing, meaning don't start drilling from inside the cap. Flip it over so that you have a space to drill into, and not into the table you're working on. Remember when drilling to use a straight down motion and not at an angle. And when working with metals, you have to exert a greater amount of downward pressure. Keep this in mind and you should have no problems. Ok, we're almost done just place the firing pin, assemble, and set it. Take the bolt and put it throught the hole in the endcap. Thread on the nut and tighten it down, try to get it as tight as possible...more than just hand tight. You should see that some work is going to have to be done to this bolt inorder to modify it into a firing pin, for it has a flat end on it. (Although some bolt are available with pointed ends, the most common are the flat head bolts. And even with the pointed bolts some work needs to be done.) You need to file down the bolt to a sharp point, and not by using a fingernail phile either. You need a good sized metal file with a medium roughness to it. When filing be sure to keep the point in the middle of the bolt, otherwise it won't stay lined up with the initiator. Also when filing out a firing pin, it is best to have a short pointed area rather than a long one. (See Example) ___ ___ | R | | W | | i |-------------_ | r |-------------___ | g | -_ | o | ---___ | h | _- | n | ___--- | t |------------- | g |------------- |___| |___| The bolt can also be ground down, if you have access to a grinder. Wh00pie, assembly time! With the bolt in place secure the larger pipe to the endcap. If you are using metal pipes, just screw it on and tighten. If you are using PVC, glue the pieces together. And if you are using ceramic, mortar or glue the endcap on. Now place the shell into the smaller pipe, and slide the smaller pipe into the bigger one. Voila, your mine is finished. All that needs to be done now is to plant it. Go to the place where you want to set the mine and dig a cylindrical hole just deep enough so that when the mine is placed inside the big pipe is barley underground. Place the mine in the hole and carefully refill the hole making sure that no excess debris enters the gap between the large and small pipe. If excess amounts of dirt enter the area between the pipes it might cause them to get wedged together thus rendering the mine useless. Be sure to pack the surrounding dirt firmly. In all there should only be about 1 to 2 inches of the small pipe sticking up. The more pipe that sticks up the harder the ground needs to be inorder to support someone riding over it without it getting pushed aside. To camouflage this just put some dirt around the pipe, don't worry about it getting into the opening where the shell is, for that will all be blow out anyway. Another good technique is the use of dirtdobber nests or mud stacks, you know those little tunnels of mud that stand above ground. Just pick up one of those and move it on top of your mine. You can even put a little fake snake head or other novelty sticking out to make it more enticing. Offroaders like to run over things, especially small woodland creatures who happen to build their nests on trails. These mines are quite easy to conceal and can be very devastating, so stick around and watch the fun. Also, when placing these set them slightly off the center of the trail for motorcycles and near the edges for 4-wheelers. Motorcycle 4-Wheelers ______________ __ ______________ / \ || = Mine / \ / __ \ /__ \ / || \ / || \ / \ / \ /______________________________\ /______________________________\ The view is looking down the trail, kind of a perspective thing, /<-/<00l huh? LAND MINE - OPTION ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ You're probably saying to yourself right now, 'Hey, that land mine thing was way cool, but it seemed like a hell of a lot of work. I wish there was an easier way to build it.' Well, all you have to do is say the magic words: A-La-Peanut-Butter-Sandwiches, and POOF! Here it is, Mental's lazy man's land mine. It's the same principle as the land mine above with a few corners cut here and there, so refer to the diagrams above except where noted. First, you need the two pipes, a shotgun shell, and an endcap...the same as above. But you will also need one medium sized cork, one rather large pointy screw, and some super glue. You can go ahead and attach the endcap to the large pipe and secure it. Next you will need to prime your firing pin. In this model, the screw is used as the firing pin, but the bolt used above or any other small cylindical metal object that can be filed to a point can be used. Actually, for this model I found a screw that was perfect, it had a broad pointy tip but was still short and stubby. (See above diagram for firing pin specifications) Anyway, once you have your firing pin, gently push or screw it into the cork until you can see the tip coming out of the end of the cork. Now put super glue on the end of the shotgun shell, and glue the cork too it. Make sure you line up the screw with the initiator on the shell. You should now have what looks similar to this: _______ |_______| <----- Screw, Bolt, Etc. | | @@@@@@@ <------------------ @@@@@@@ } Cork __@@@@@@@__ <------------------ ~| |~ <----- |-------| } | | } | | } Shotgun Shell | | } | | } |_______| <----- It looks similar to a syringe, and indeed it works on the same principle. The screw being the plunger getting pushed into the initiator of the shotgun shell. The cork acts as a stablizer too keep the screw going in a straight motion, and not just falling over. It is very important to make sure that the screw is lined up with the initiator of the shell and that it is set in a straight path towards it. There can be no angling to the screw or else this mine won't work. After the glue dries, slip the shell into the smaller pipe, and then put the smaller pipe into the larger pipe. The mine is now complete, refer to the above text for placement and setting. THE SMASH ~~~~~~~~~ This little trap is great fun to watch when it is sprung right. Riders are caught completely off gaurd, and confronted with a confusing situation that leads to some hillarious actions. The trap is very simple to set up, and really does not do that much damage unless of course the riders happen to wreck...which is always a bonus. Anyhow, all you need for this is some rope and two objects. The reason I say objects is that almost anything can be used, from small to large. Let me explain the trap and then I'll give you some tips and techniques for it. A length of rope about 5 to 10 feet long (Or longer depending upon your goal) is tied on each end to a separapte object. The rope is then stretched across a trail at about handle-bar level, and the objects hidden in the surrounding brush. What happens is the rider comes blazing down the trail and hits the rope, which goes across the handle-bars and is pulled along with him. The objects are then jerked from their hiding places and either: A) Slam against the rider and/or side of the bike or B) Are dragged along behind the rider. It depends upon the length of the rope as to which scenario, A or B, will be taken. This will generally, 99 times out of a 100, cause a rider to crash, smash, turn, and burn...and leave them in utter bewilderment. The only problem with this trap is hiding it so that the rider doesn't see the rope. The best place is on a curvy trail where the rider can never see too far ahead, but not too curvy so that the rider has to slow way down. The trap won't work to it's full potential unless the rider is going a substantial speed. Another thing to try is distraction. When you are flying down a trail and something off to the side catches your eye you tend to look back, or your mind wanders for a brief second, that's when to hit them. Try placing some odd object off to the side of the trail right before the trap, a mannequin does wonders especially in choice positions. Try brightly colored objects, or put up a sign with their name in bold letters like 'ED BRINKS BITES' or something like that. Another plan you can use is the 'surprise' method. In this you set up the trap like normal but you hide on one side of the trail and hold the rope so that it's just laying on the ground. When the rider comes by you lift up the rope and whammo! You just have to remember to take off fast after that, unless you want a confrontation with them. Of course you can always try the Automatic Trap Springer(tm) on them (See Details Later In Text) but that's not always a reliable method to use. Anyway the regular setup is pretty easy. Like I said you tie the ends of the rope to two objects and then drape the rope across the trail. You don't tie the rope across the trail (that comes later) you merly drape it over some nearby tree limbs or something. Just enough so that it is suspended across the trail. That way when the rider hits it, the objects will be pulled out and smash him or get dragged behind him. That's it for the basic setup. Now for the Automatic Trap Springer, this gets a little complicated so bear with me. Again I think I'll draw a diagram first and then try to explain that, so here it is: Tree 1 Tree 2 \\\ ||||| ||||| \\\|||||---_@@*@@ / |||||**/ \||||| -@@** / **|||||/ ** - - ||||| @@ /* ** ||||| - = Fishing Line - ||||| @@ / ************* ||||| - - ||||| / /||||| |||||- ||||| / ||||| / ||||| ***** = Rope ||||| / ||||| -||||| / ||||| ----- = Fishing Line -------------------------------------||||| ||||| / / ||||| ||||| = Tree ||||| / / ||||| ||||| / Trail / ||||| @@ @@ ||||| / / ||||| @@ = A 'Y' forked / / @@ stick Tree 3 Tree 4 @@ Like I said, confusing as fuck but read through the following and we'll see if I can clear a few things up. The principle is that the rope is draped on tree 2, from there is hangs down to the ground and runs along the ground, across the trail. It is there that it runs under and through the limbs of a forked branch. The branch is shaped like a 'Y' and should be sturdy enough to hold up the rope, however, at this time the branch is lying on the ground. But the end is proped against something to allow it to stand (You'll understand in a minute) Or you can set it in a slanted hole like: |_/ (This is better) Now a heavy pound fishing line is tied to the branch right where it splits. This line is then ran over the branch on tree 1 and down the trail to tree 3. On tree 3 the line is ran under a small branch about waist high, and then back across the trail where it is tied to tree 4. Now if everything is hooked up properly, and the fishing line is taunt, when you push on the line going across the trail it should pull on the 'Y' stick causing it to rise which in turn lifts the rope. You might need to make a few adjustments at first to get this right, but be patient. Once set up, it can be left alone without having to worry about camouflaging the heavy rope because it'll be lying on the ground. Just cover it with a layer of dirt, and as for the line, well most are nearly invisible...at least enough for these purposes. What should happen is that the rider will be hauling down the trail and hit the line which will send a quick jerk to the 'Y' stick causing it to stand up and lift the rope which the rider will run into. Now for obviouse reasons you should not make the run of line from tree 3 to tree 1 that long. Usually no more than 10 or so feet. At first this can be a hit or miss type setup, but with a little practice you should be able to set up a fairly reliable Auto Trap Springer. Now on to the good stuff, what objects to use. Well like I said almost anything can be used, but I'll list some decent ideas. If you are low on cash just tie a couple of medium sized tree limbs to the rope, the more branches on each the better. Boards are also decent to use, and can really mess up a rider if they get caught under a wheel. After a few set ups you should know about how long to make the rope so that the objects will smash the rider instead of just dragging behind. Once you get this down you can use bags of rotten eggs, decompossed fruit, feces, vomit, your mom's meatloaf, you name it. The thing you must remember when using bags o' filth is that you must make the bags so that they will bust on the rider. Heavy duty zip-locks or garbage bags don't really bust too easily. Paper bags don't bust but they will ooze out through the paper in a short time. If possible puncture some holes in the bags, just high enough so that the contents doesn't spill out. This way when the bags hit the rider the contents will spill out. Another good trick is to tie the rope to immobile objects such as rocks or trees. This way when the rider hits the rope his bike will stop but he won't. He'll fly right over the handle-bars. You can also use old stuff usually lying around the woods, old wood pallets, trash bags full of trash, old cow bones, miscellaneous woodland creatures, etc. A really messy one is to use open paint cans, usually the one gallon size. The larger five gallon buckets are too heavy to be slung up to the rider, unless they are only about half full. Use your imagination...water ballons filled with piss, a jumble of barbwire, a bag of soiled profilactics, a sack of old rusty nails and knives...let your mind run wild. THE CLOTHES LINE ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ This is similar to THE SMASH, listed above, but the rope is tied off to the trees and not to some objects. The rope is also raised enough to catch the rider right on the upper torso or neck region. Before I go on I must warn you that this trap can seriously injure a rider, and could possibly kill them if they are hit in the neck region. All previous traps have been aimed at the vehicle, or simply to throw the rider off, however, this trap is meant for the rider and to do him harm. It should be used only in extreme cases. You have been warned, on with the file. Now this trap is very simplistic so I'll only give you the simplistic breakdown, that means no aWs0me grAfx d00d...aww too bad. Ok, well first get a piece of rope that's long enought to fit across the trail. Then find two trees adjacent tothe trail, one on each side (duh?). Now tie the rope to one tree, stretch the rope firmly across to the other tree, and tie it off. Ta-da! You're finished, except for a little camoufalge (See THE SMASH above for camouflage details) Now when the rider hits this trap he will be knocked off the bike, how hard depends upon how fast he was going, but none the less he will be hurt. Especially if the rope gets him in the throat. This could cause his throat to cave in and collapse which means death. Another varient to this is to use steel cable. If you can find it and you have access to a come-a-long, or other device used to tighten rope, then you can use it. However don't use any cable over 1" in thickness, over that it gets to be a hassle. Make sure the cable is very taunt, and not loose. Now the differance between this and regular rope is that the steel cable is stronger and will give less. This means that if the rider is travelling fast enough, and is hit in the neck there's a damn good chance that he will be decapitated. Even when hit in the chest there's always a good sized gash. Again note that this is a very serious trap and should be used only in dire situations. ---Well that about it for this file, folks. I'm tired of typing, so I'll end it here. I've got a few more traps up my sleeve, and more on the way so be on the lookout for Offroad Annihilation Part ][, The Death of a Biker. It promises to bring out the bloody best in offroad ambushings along with the latest technological breakthroughs in this exciting new field. And as always, if you have any questions I can be reached on whichever board you can find me on. So a hearty Hiddy-Hoe to all...see you next time around.--- +---------------+ | Mental Hijinx | +---------------+ Brought to you By: ThE DeEp ReD ZoMbIeS <*>==)A Killer Kult Production(==<*>